Honeywell ADE Optima Compact G4 will Not Set | on Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums (2024)

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terrymac9

  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #1

Hi Everyone

I hope you can help me on this issue. I installed the above panel in my partners house and it has been working fine for 8 months until last night.

She tried to set the system rom rkp and it just goes to unset on the LCD Display then back to day date and time display On the panel key pad when she inputs the code LED 1 illuminates Door exit/entry and the panel emit beeps but does not set and t then requires the code and a reset to clear the fault.

I am working overseas at the moment so spoke to her on the phone and talked her though a full power down of the system (mains and battery) but it did not resolve the problem. During power down the panel tamper operated and the strobe and siren worked fine. I can not understand why the timed exit/entry is indicating fault as you can set the system with the front door opened or closed.

I feel that the pcb has developed an onboard fault but just wondered if anyone has come across this problem before and maybe a reset to factory settings would sort the issue out. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards Terry

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Darkwood

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  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #2

Welcome to the forum Terry Honeywell ADE Optima Compact G4 will Not Set | on Free Electrical Advice - Electricians Forums (2)

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RWJ

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  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #3

No that familiar with these panels. I did remove one a few weeks ago where the caps had let the blue smoke out.
The customer was 100% sure it was the RKP, we ordered another RKP but turned out to be the PCB (got a spare RKP if anyone needs one!). I'm sure that was doing something odd. There were in the PSU stage and probably used as smoothing, hence why it still worked but did strange things.

There's no open tamper? or tamper fault?
I assume you only have one RKP and no remote fob reader as you didn't mention another?

Open it up and check for vented / bulging caps on the right had side near the PSU rectification stage.

I'm not promoting other forums but if you don't get the help needed here (primarily an electricians forum) there are other forums that The Security Installers use, although as this is a DIY panel they will probably know less than the guys on here... so maybe not!

Last edited:

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T

terrymac9

  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #4

Thanks for the advice but overseas at the moment, there is only one rkp and no fobs but he when you try to set the system from the rkp it does not come up with any fault just beeps and then goes to unset and back to time date and day. It just seems strange that the exit entry which is a timed door contact is showing fault on the LED1 on the control panel

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telectrix

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  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #5

could be a faulty contact. possibly damp got in. only way to tell is to short the pair that connect to the silver colored terminals and keep insulated from the tamper pair.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #6

Hi telectrix
It is the timed contact for exit and entry that is showing fault so even if it was damp it would still arm the system as the panel does not take any notice of this contact being open or closed condition until the timer contact times out.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #8

telectrix said:

yes but is the panel timing out seeing the contact as a fault and thus refusing to set?

No it is going straight into fault as soon as the quick set or code is punched into the panel. she has tried it with the front door open and closed and still the same problem. She has powered down the system completely from mains and battery and fault is still the same. The cover tamper operated when she opened it to disconnect the battery and the strobe and bell activated on power down

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telectrix

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  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #9

if the zone LED comes on with the door closed it's a contact or wiring fault

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  • Jul 22, 2016
  • #10

From what I can gather the alarm is showing the door is constantly open when it isnt? Or is the alarm fully sounding when she tries to set it?

This sounds stupid but of its the first issue then give the door contact a tap with your screwdriver... Sometimes the relay sticks inside the contact. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #11

Hi Guys thanks for the help and advice but the problem is that the led for zone 1 illuminate immediately after the door exit entry is inputted from the panel or the rkp. The panel makes a beeping noise and will only clear when the code is inputted again. It doe not wait for the entry timer to time out.

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #12

terrymac9 said:

Hi Guys thanks for the help and advice but the problem is that the led for zone 1 illuminate immediately after the door exit entry is inputted from the panel or the rkp. The panel makes a beeping noise and will only clear when the code is inputted again. It doe not wait for the entry timer to time out.

Then as suggested, give the contact a tap to see if that makes any difference or as Tel has suggested, twist the wires together in the contact to see if that solves it, if so then its a faulty door contact

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T

terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #13

Then as suggested, give the contact a tap to see if that makes any difference or as Tel has suggested, twist the wires together in the contact to see if that solves it, if so then its a faulty door contact

Thanks for the advice but maybe I am in wrong is stating that the panel does not care if the zone 1 exit door contact is open or closed during setting of the alarm as you can set the alarm with the door either open or closed so the door contact only comes into pay when the exit timer has timed out which is 30 seconds. If after that period the door contact is still open then the panel would go into alarm mode and fire the internal and external sounders.

As soon as you input the code to arm the system LED1 illuminates but the tamp LED does not illuminate the panels internal sounder starts to beep and will only reset by entering the code. I have a feeling at the pcb is faulty as even if you disconnected the two wires from the pcb an made it open circuit the panel would still arm and after 30 seconds exit time it would go into full alarm as it would not see a closed contact. I think the only thing I can do try is a factory default reset and set the parameters up again to see if that clears the problem.

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telectrix

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #14

you must approach this logically. first it's essential that you eliminate a wiring/detector fault before considering a panel fault. take the 2 wires out of zone 1 in the panel. if you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the pair to the door. it should be < 10 ohms. if no meter, link the zone out at the pcb, refit lid and then if the fault clears, it's not the panel. if it persists, it is the panel.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #15

telectrix said:

you must approach this logically. first it's essential that you eliminate a wiring/detector fault before considering a panel fault. take the 2 wires out of zone 1 in the panel. if you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the pair to the door. it should be < 10 ohms. if no meter, link the zone out at the pcb, refit lid and then if the fault clears, it's not the panel. if it persists, it is the panel.

I will ask my girlfriend to power down the panel today and disconnect the two wires and fit a jumper to see if that cures the problem as I am working overseas as it is worth a try. I have the same system in my house and I am sure that you can set the system with the front door open or closed but maybe it does need to be closed before it will arm the system.

If that works she can just leave the jumper in till I get back as the PIR's will still pick up an intruder.

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Simlec

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #16

Yes you can arm the system with the door open or closed. To test all your zones are working put them all with the chime feature on.
Without been there to test it myself it sounds like PCB as I has a system last week doing similar.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #17

Thanks for that I was sure you could arm the system with the door contact open or closed so it does not come into play until the system is set and then the exit entry contact has timed out. The error LED1 is illuminating as soon as you punch in the code or use the Tick (quick set)

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ruston

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #18

I am not too familiar with this panel, But can you omit it from programming and allocate another zone for E/E.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #19

Zone 1 is normally used for exit entry but it would not make any difference as the panel would still have the same fault condition as it is in fault condition with open or closed circuit contacts unless it can b programmed out completely as not used so its worth looking at

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ruston

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #20

If it was reallocated to a reprogrammed zone it would confirm the fault if the original Zone was omitted and the fault reappeared on the substituted zone.

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terrymac9

  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #21

ruston said:

If it was reallocated to a reprogrammed zone it would confirm the fault if the original Zone was omitted and the fault reappeared on the substituted zone.

Yes I will try that when I get home thanks for the heads up.

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ruston

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  • Jul 23, 2016
  • #22

In the meantime a part set usually omits the E/E and converts it to a guard zone; but as I said I am not to familiar with this panel . I am a Texecom man lol.
Try what Tel said and link it out.

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